Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Before the Road Ended: Our first 4 1/2 days in Mexico



Northern Mexico, May 17
On first glance, there appear to be no rules driving in Mexico. However, as you go, you realize that there are rules, but they are different and not posted. For instance, the speed limits are less than suggestions and  turn signals in Mexico are used far more broadly than in the States. They are used to indicate that a vehicle wants to pass, that a semi is in the process of passing and sometimes that it is safe to pass. The physical setup of the highways are different here as well. Unless it is a divided highway, the roads are the width of three lanes. The yellow line is in the center and then, where in the US where the solid white lines would be are dashed white lines and a large, half lanes wide, shoulder. Cars are expected to drive one set of wheelsover the dashed line, thus leaving the center of the road free for passing. Out there in the middle is a free for all and if you want to pass you have to bring your big boy game.  -JF

Mountain pass just south of Cuidad Victoria in northern Mexico

Mexico City, May 19
The people of Central and South America are a diverse group.
While in the States, historically, a strict racial line kept races separate, south the many varied races mixed far more. What this means today is that Mexico is a huge palette of colors. There are Mexicans that could pass as whites and Mexicans that are nearly as dark as Africans. The vast majority though are clearly descended from the native populations. But the advertisement is not geared toward them. The pictures of women on the front of magazines are white, the mannequins in the stores clearly have anglo features, and even the foam mascot suit I saw today was designed to look like a white person. In a country anglos are so few that Nathaniel and I tell each other if we see one almost every advertisement features people of anglo ancestry. -JF

Restaurant we ate in the second day in Mexico


Mexico City, May 19
Bucket list check. Thursday afternoon Jake and i noticed a soccer game in progress in the park across the street from where we were staying. We walked over and watched for a while before asking to join. They were playing two-and-out. Whoever scores 2 goals first stays in and a new team comes on for the losers. Jacob and I joined one of the teams on the sideline. Just watching for a few minutes it was apparent that one of the teams was superior to the rest. The level of play was pretty competitive and the field was dirt. Our team lost to the good team 2 or 3 times in a row. The other players on our team seemed a bit hesitant to pass to us since we were a couple gringos from the USA. Finally one of our amigos passed it to me in the center, I dribbled the first defender, pushed the ball up close to the second, and fired a low left-footed drive into the bottom corner. A couple minutes later one of our teammates scored a second.
We were surprised by some of the differences in mexican pickup soccer. They don’t celebrate, and there doesn’t seem to be much comradery. Nonetheless, it was a great time and one of our favorite experiences thus far. -NW


Mexico has the best food


Central Mexico, May 20
I love driving in this country. It is how Nathaniel and I have always wanted to drive. A strange mixture of cautious and reckless, driving takes more skill and demands more from the drivers themselves. Here, there is more room to improvise. Is traffic to slow? Pass on the shoulder. Driving here both Nathaniel and I drive differently than we did in the states. You have to. You cannot be too cautious, you have to follow the flow of traffic. Plus, it’s fun. Are we too reckless? I am 25, single and I say no. Would my answer change if I was married, or 10 years older? Probably, but then, I never would have gone on this trip if I was. -JF


Our favorite chief in Mexico, notice the trowel he uses


Cosamaloapan, May 21
The air is hot and heavy as we enter the cathedral. Last night there were thousands of people in the town plaza for the fair but this morning there are only a faithful few in mass. They are sequestered off in a small side chamber. Nathaniel and I sit conspicuously on one of the main benches outside the room, very much aware of our skin color and protestantism. The priest is leading the small group in a prayer, each members dutifully reciting along. I can see farther up in the church around the great dome, four painted statues resting in each corner. San Juan, San Mateo, San Lucas and San Marcos. The congregation begins to sing and I marvel at the beauty of their voices rising into the echoing chambers above. Sweat trickles down my as the priest brings the wine and wafers for communion. He stands at the front and offers the wine dipped wafer to each member, placing it in their mouths. The small side room separated from the main chamber by a beautiful wrought iron gate. I begin to see this gate as a metaphor for the Catholic church. Beautiful to see, man made and a self imposed barrier between man and God. As the priest ends the service with what I think is the Hail Mary and Nathaniel and I rise to leave, I am profoundly thankful have been raised protestant. I am thankful that Jesus is my savior, my prophet, my king and now, more acutely aware, my priest. -JF


Sunday, May 15, 2016

Out the Door and on the Road: First Steps

We have been busy this last year. Between school, ultimate, church, friendships, family, jobs and this trip we have very busy indeed. We have pressed our noses to grindstones, burnt candles at both ends, gone the extra miles and pulled our weight and more. Like a man trudging through a thick forest. His head bent in exhaustion, the path ahead obscured by task tress. Rooted in responsibility, nurtured by obligation and weaned on necessity they grow thickly and conceal the path ahead. In this trip we hope to have a moment to catch our breaths and take a panoramic view of our lives. To orientate ourselves once more before God. We are eternal creatures and  have lost that perspective.  -JF


Bozeman, May 8
We leave our house in Bozeman with all the pomp and circumstance of a weekend trip. “Do we remember everything?” As it turns out, no. “Are you ready to go?” Than asks me as I adjust my gloves. We are off. Two blocks later we stop for gas and to check the tire pressure. It takes me several seconds to find the proper inflation pressure on the tire’s side. Ok, now we are ready. We drive for 2 hours to Billings where we spend the night. Our trip is starting slowly. Easing into the frigid waters of international travel and self reliance. Or more aptly, perceived self reliance.  -JF


One of my favorite things about going on this trip is people’s reaction. Specifically, the first things people recommend we should bring or ask us if we have packed. The thing they consider indispensable to our survival and safety. Or perhaps just the first thing that comes to mind.
  • “Will you have a cellphone?”
  • “Do you have good waterproof boots?”
  • “What about diarrhea medication?”
  • ”Are you taking a gun?”
  • “Have you thought about chaffing?”
  • “You’re bring bug spray, right?”
Well, yes, sort of, not yet, what!? should we? and no. Than and I have talked that there are a hundred things we need to bring and another hundred we could bring, but in the end they would only weigh us down.  -JF


Southern Wyoming, May 9
Than sits on the wet gravel beside his bike, loosening the rear axle bolt. I hunker behind his bike trying to stay out of the wind and looking for our 12mm wrench. We are parked on a pull off somewhere before Cheyenne in the 70 mile gasless gap in southern Wyoming. A few minutes before, in the midst of the rainstorm with wind strong enough that we barely could stay on the road, Than’s chain slipped. Now, in the wind and the gale-force wind, we shiver, because all our layers are on the bottom of our panniers since we didn’t think we would need them until Argentina. Than tightens his chain, then mine, since it is loose as well. I look up as we collect the tools. I hear bird song. The storm has passed. The sun is shining, blanketing everything in golden light. We are standing on a slight rise and the entire vibrant green prairie spreads out before us. The towering storm clouds are on one side, being pushed further east while the sun trails towards the horizon in shining benevolence. As we start our bikes back up and set out I can’t help but grinning from ear to ear at God’s creation.




When you first buy a motorcycle and hit the open road you discover a few things. First you experience the freedom of being totally exposed to the elements. It’s pretty exhilarating to cruise along a small country highway or drive through an afternoon thunderstorm. There are no walls to block all the wind and no roof to protect you from the rain. There is no A/C, no heater, and no radio to play with. It’s just you and the road, and a whole lot of time to think.
Another thing that you’ll soon realize is that you’ve just joined a brotherhood. Just by owning a motorcycle you’ve earned the respect of thousands of bikers. When one rider passes by another there is a silent recognition of this respect. It’s expected that you extend your left arm out in the customary handwave. I go back and forth between thinking this brotherhood is totally awesome and other times thinking it’s absolutely ridiculous. The fact that someone thinks differently of you because you own a motorcycle is frankly hilarious. On the other hand, it’s super fun to connect with other people out enjoying the road from the seat of a bike.
 -NW


Colorado, May 12
The front tire glides over the pavement in the darkening twilight. The asphalt still holds the heat from the day and the air as it rushes past cools pleasantly, not yet chilled enough to be brisk. The road is enclosed on each side by green hills and craggy cliffs, following the twists and turns of the river. For 11 miles the roads, each curve flows into the next. For those 11 miles we reach something approaching serenity as the bikes lap up the turns.  -JF



Texas, May 14We got our butts kicked today. If today was a fight, we got knocked down by the first punch. Then we stood up again, got bludgeoned for a few rounds and K.O.-ed. We needed to ride 600 miles between Midland and McAllen Texas. We woke at 5 and left the house at 5:30 stopped at a gas station and then promptly got lost. We couldn’t figure out how to get out of town. We ended up in some dirty suburb getting chased by dog. So, back to the gas station we went to buy a map. Then it rained, not a pleasant light rain, but a torrential downpour. After that, nothing went according to plan. We were late, lost, sopping wet and with the bikes in need of repair we stopped in San Antonio for the night, nearly 250 miles from where we planned. But that is what this trip is all about. Than and I learned in Africa that nothing goes according to plan. So, we'll roll with the punches and keep getting up. If you can't be smart, be tough.